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Blur or hide anything in a photo

Drag a box or paint with a brush over a face, an ID number or a licence plate. Pick a blur, a mosaic or a solid block — whichever you choose, the pixels underneath are gone from the file you download.

🔒 Nothing is uploaded. Nothing is stored.

Every resize, crop, filter and conversion runs on your own device using your browser’s built-in graphics engine. Your images are never sent to a server, never stored, and never seen by us — which also means the tool keeps working after the page has loaded, even if you go offline.

One consequence is worth naming: because the export is drawn by the canvas, EXIF metadata — GPS coordinates, camera serial number, timestamps — never reaches the saved file. The Convert tab shows you what was in the original before you export it.

How to cover something so that it stays covered

There are two ways to hide part of a photograph, and only one of them works.

The way that does not work is to put something on top: a black rectangle in a PDF, a shape pasted over a screenshot in a slide, a sticker in a chat app. The original pixels are still in the file, sitting underneath a layer that anybody can move, delete or select around. Every few months a redacted court filing or a government report makes the news for exactly this reason.

The way that works is to destroy the pixels. That is what this tool does: the area you drag over is recomputed and written back into the image, and the values that were there are gone from the exported file. There is no layer to peel off, because there is no layer.

The three effects

Blur replaces the region with a smeared version of itself. It reads as a deliberate edit while still showing that a person was there, which is why it is the usual choice for faces and for backgrounds.

Mosaic replaces it with large uniform blocks. It survives re-compression more visibly than blur — a heavily compressed blur can look accidental, a mosaic never does — and it is the convention on Korean and Japanese broadcast television, so viewers read it as censorship rather than as a bad lens.

A solid block replaces the region with black. It is the honest choice for anything a machine might read: an identity number, a bank account, a licence plate, a QR code. Nothing is left to reconstruct because nothing is left.

The strength slider controls how far blur smears and how big the mosaic blocks are. Both are measured against the size of the area rather than in fixed pixels, so a small box gets small blocks and the result looks the same whether you export at 800 px or 4000.

One caveat worth stating plainly: a weak blur over text is the one case where covering can be partially defeated. If the font and the wording are guessable, an attacker can blur candidate strings the same way and compare. Turn the strength up, or use the block, and the problem does not arise.

Rectangles and the brush

The rectangle is for things that are rectangular — a form field, a name badge, a screenshot region. Drag to draw one; drag it again afterwards to reposition it.

The brush is for things that are not. Painting along a road sign, around a child’s face in a crowd, or over a tattoo follows the shape more closely than a box would, and covers less of the photo you wanted to keep. Its size is set in the panel, and each stroke counts as one area you can remove later.

Areas are listed in the panel in the order you made them, with an undo button for the last one and a delete on each. Changing the effect or the strength changes every area at once — one set of controls, not one per box.

Crop first, then cover

The covered areas are recorded against the picture you are looking at. If you crop afterwards, the crop changes what “the picture” is, and the areas move relative to the photo. So do it in the order that reads naturally anyway: straighten and crop, then cover, then set the size and export. If you do need to re-crop after covering, glance at the blur tab afterwards to confirm the boxes are still where you want them.

What this does not do

It does not follow a face through a batch of different photographs, and it does not know what is sensitive. It covers what you tell it to cover, in the place you put it, and then it makes that permanent — which for the specific job of handing a photograph to somebody else is the whole requirement.

Frequently asked questions

Can the blur be undone?

No. The covered pixels are overwritten in the exported file, so there is nothing underneath to recover. This matters more than it sounds: the recurring news story about a leaked redacted document is almost always a black rectangle drawn on top of text that was still in the file. Here the rectangle is not an object placed over the photo — it is the photo, rewritten.

Which of the three effects should I use?

For a face, any of them works; blur usually looks least jarring. For anything a machine could read back — an ID number, an address, a plate, a barcode — use the solid block, or a mosaic at high strength. Text is the weak case for blur specifically, because a mild blur applied to a known font can sometimes be narrowed down by trying every candidate string. Strength solves it, and a solid block removes the question entirely.

Does the exported file look exactly like the preview?

Yes, and by construction rather than by good intentions. The preview and the export call the same function on the same coordinates; the only difference is the size of the canvas it runs on. The covered area is described as a proportion of the picture rather than in pixels, so it lands in the same place whether the output is 600 px wide or 6000.

Can I cover the same spot on a whole folder?

Yes — leave “apply to all selected files” on and the areas are applied to every selected file, in the same relative position. That is genuinely useful for a set of photos framed the same way: frames from one video, scans of the same form, screenshots of the same screen. It is the wrong tool for a folder of unrelated photos, where a face is in a different place in each one; do those one at a time.

Does this also remove the location data from the photo?

It does, though not because of this tool. Every export here is redrawn by the browser's canvas, which writes pixels and nothing else — EXIF, GPS coordinates, camera serial numbers and timestamps do not survive the trip. The Convert tab lists what it found in the original before you export, so you can see what is being dropped instead of hoping.

Why does it not find the faces for me?

Face detection would mean either shipping a model to your browser or sending the photo to a server, and the second is off the table on this site. The first is on the table, but a detector that misses one face in a group photo is worse than no detector at all, because it teaches you to trust it. Drawing the boxes yourself takes a few seconds and you know exactly what is covered.

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A free browser-based image toolkit — resize, crop, filter and convert without uploading anything. Built and maintained by a single developer; feedback and bug reports are genuinely welcome.

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