🔒 Your images never leave your device

Resize images online

Set an exact pixel size, a percentage, or just drag the corner handles. Lock the aspect ratio and apply the same size to every file in the queue.

🔒 Nothing is uploaded. Nothing is stored.

Every resize, crop, filter and conversion runs on your own device using your browser’s built-in graphics engine. Your images are never sent to a server, never stored, and never seen by us — which also means the tool keeps working after the page has loaded, even if you go offline.

One consequence is worth naming: because the export is drawn by the canvas, EXIF metadata — GPS coordinates, camera serial number, timestamps — never reaches the saved file. The Convert tab shows you what was in the original before you export it.

What the resize controls actually do

Resizing looks like one operation, but the controls on this page encode three separate decisions: how big, measured how, and what to do with the pixels in between.

Choosing the target

The three modes exist because “how big” has three different sources. A pixel target comes from outside — a form, a CMS, a print spec. A percentage comes from the file itself: you know it is roughly four times larger than you need. The longest-edge cap comes from the batch: twenty photos, some portrait and some landscape, all of which need to fit inside 2000 px without anyone deciding orientation by orientation.

The aspect ratio lock is on by default, and it should usually stay on. Typing a width and letting the height follow is the difference between a resized photograph and a stretched one. Hold Shift while dragging a handle when you genuinely want to distort — for a background texture, say, where nobody will notice.

What happens to the pixels

Every reduction throws pixels away. The question is only whether the discarded ones influence the survivors. A single-step downscale samples and discards; repeated halving averages, so edges stay continuous instead of breaking into stair-steps. That is why the tool reduces in stages, and why a 10x reduction here holds together better than the same reduction done in one jump elsewhere.

The resampling choice matters when the source is not a photograph. Smooth blending is right for anything with gradients and texture. Sharp sampling — nearest-neighbour — is right for pixel art, screenshots of low-resolution UI, and QR codes, where blending turns crisp squares into grey mush.

Working through a batch

Leave apply to all selected files on and the settings you tune on the visible image are used for every ticked file in the queue. The images are processed one at a time on your own device, so a batch of a hundred takes as long as a hundred single files — but you only make the decision once, and everything arrives as a single ZIP.

If the files vary a lot in size, longest-edge mode is the one that behaves sensibly across the whole set. Percentage mode will leave a 6000 px original at 3000 px while shrinking a 1200 px one to 600 px, which is rarely what you want when the destination is the same for all of them.

Frequently asked questions

Pixels, percent or longest edge — which mode should I use?

Use pixels when something else dictates the number: an upload form asking for 1200 px wide, a template, a print size. Use percent when the images are already right and just too big — 50% halves everything and keeps every file's proportions. Use longest edge for mixed batches of portrait and landscape shots, because it caps both orientations with one number instead of cropping one of them.

Why is my image sharper when I resize in one step here than elsewhere?

Because the reduction is done in stages rather than in one jump. Going straight from 4000 px to 400 px makes the browser sample one pixel out of every ten and throw the rest away, which turns fine detail into speckle. Halving repeatedly — 4000, 2000, 1000, 500, 400 — averages the discarded pixels into the ones that survive.

Can I make a small image bigger?

You can, but the option is off by default. Enlarging cannot recover detail that was never captured; it can only spread the pixels you have over a larger area, which reads as softness or plastic-looking smoothing. If you need a larger file for a print job, go back to the original camera file rather than upscaling a resized copy.

Does resizing change the DPI?

There is no DPI to change. DPI is a number stored in the file's metadata that tells a printer how large to render the image; it has no effect on screens and does not alter a single pixel. A 3000 x 2000 image is the same image whether its metadata says 72 or 300. What matters for print quality is the pixel count, which is exactly what this tool changes.

Why does the output look slightly different from the preview?

The preview is scaled to fit your screen, so it is itself a resized copy. Fine texture and thin lines can look different at preview scale than at the exported size. Export one file and open it if the detail matters — the exported pixels are the real result.

Image guides

About EditImg.online

A free browser-based image toolkit — resize, crop, filter and convert without uploading anything. Built and maintained by a single developer; feedback and bug reports are genuinely welcome.

🔒 Images are processed on your device only. See the privacy policy for cookies and advertising.

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